Honda Civic Electrical Fuse Replacement Guide - 2016, 2017, 2018 & 2019 (2024)

Owners of other Honda or Acura vehicles such as the Accord, Insight, Clarity, Fit, HR-V, CR-V, Pilot, Passport, Odyssey, Ridgeline, ILX, MDX, RDX, NSX, RLX and TLX may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The 10th generation Civic is equipped with the relatively newer style of "low profile" mini blade fuses.

There should be a white plastic fuse puller tool included on the underside of the engine bay fuse box cover.

If the tool is missing, you could use a pair of needle nose pliers with rubber insulated handles.

The first two steps are to open the hood and then move to the right (driver) side of the engine bay.

The black plastic rectangular shaped fuse box is situated behind the driver side headlight assembly and to the right of the engine air filter box and the 12V automotive battery.

There are three release tabs on the fuse box cover.

Then push in the tabs on the left side and the right side of the box to release the other two retaining clips.

Lift the cover straight off the top of the fuse box.

There should be another diagram in your owner's manual.

You'll also see a selection of spare fuses and the white plastic fuse puller tool attached to the underside of the cover.

The interior passenger compartment electrical panel is located under the driver side of the dashboard.

Look under the dashboard close to where the driver's left knee would reside while driving.

The small electrical panel is near the OBDII (or "OBD2") on-board diagnostics port.

Place the jaws over the old fuse that you would like to check or change.

Pull the old fuse straight out of the socket.

To check the condition of the old fuse, hold it up to a light bulb.

If the thin metal bar or "band" in the translucent plastic center of the old fuse appears to be burnt or broken, the old fuse is most likely "blown" and should be replaced.

Push a new "low profile" mini blade fuse of the same amperage rating (e.g. 5A, 10A, 15A, 20 amps) straight into the socket.

If the thin metal strip in the see-through plastic middle section of the old fuse appears to be intact, it is probably still good.

Since new fuses are so inexpensive, it would be a good idea to still replace the fuse as part of your electrical issue troubleshooting process.

If you would like to hardwire a 12V power source for an automotive accessory such as a GPS navigation unit, turbo boost gauge, radar detector, LED lights, dashcam (dash camera), cell phone charger, a DVD player or a lighted Uber / Lyft sign, you can use an Add-A-Circuit fuse adapter. They are also known as a "piggy-back" or "fuse tap".

You can choose either a fuse circuit that has constant 12V power or one that is switched off when the ignition is off.

To test the circuit, use a digital multimeter tool to see if it is "hot" (has 12 volt power) when the ignition is off or if it is a switched circuit that is only live when the ignition is in the on or accessory position.

Don't worry about the numbers and letter on the fuse matching the orientation of the other fuses.

Fuses can be inserted into the socket in either orientation.

If you suspect that a faulty relay is the cause of your problem, the easiest way to troubleshoot the issue is to simply replace the relay with a new relay. You could also test the old relay with a digital multimeter tool. To remove an old relay, just pull it straight out of the electrical panel.

Push the plastic tool back into place on the underside of the cover.

Lower the cover over the top of the engine bay fuse block.

Push on the cover to secure the three retaining clips.

Test the electrical component that you were having issues with such as the stereo, window wipers, gauges, horn, A/C system, tail lights, interior lights, defroster, vanity mirror lights, power window motor, electronic parking brake (EPB), etc.

If you are still having the same problem, there may be a shorted out wire or the component itself needs to be replaced.

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